Review by SanDiegoRestaurants.com
One word: Go. Just go. You´ll be happy you did. Bold flavors have found a new home in the Gaslamp´s latest addition, Aqua Blu at 734 Fifth Avenue, a self-proclaimed "fusion seafood" bistro. My guest and I couldn´t miss the arched wave of an aqua-colored frieze adorning Aqua Blu´s façade, a beckoning pearl on a street jammed with chefs competing for our taste buds.
Enclosing a dining room that could be described as "industrial ocean liner", the deep-green arched ceiling with dropped panels lends a roomy yet cozy feeling to the space. Banquettes line two walls and colorful suede pillows give just the right measure of casual meets night out. A lemon-colored wall hiding the kitchen is reminiscent of a Japanese screen. Early in the evening on the weeknight when we visited, the ambience was relaxed.
Add to this the skill and talent of Aqua Blu´s accomplished, Executive Chef, Christopher Powell, and you have an unbeatable combination of resources that allow culinary masterworks to be born in the kitchen then, minutes later, explode blissfully in the mouths of happy guests seated in the dining room.
The interior of Aqua Blu is refreshingly light and modern. A comfortable outdoor patio adjacent to the avenue is also available for those with a penchant for al fresco dining. The bar is compact but exceptionally well stocked, featuring everything from specialty Martinis, mixed drinks and popular call brands, to chilled microbrews and fine wines from around the world.
Shortly after being led to our table, my guest and I began our meal with a crisply chilled Sauvignon Blanc and a delightfully subtle appetizer of smoked salmon and shrimp in a sake cream sauce. Delicate in flavor and texture, the mild, lightly smoky seafood was artfully offset by the velvety, rice wine blend.
No sooner had we finished the last bite than Gabriele arrived with one of Aqua Blu´s house specialties, Ahi Tuna and Salmon Tartare. When it comes to seafood, it doesn´t get any fresher than this. The salmon and Ahi practically melted in our mouths as they were joined by the rich flavor of diced Hass avocado atop infused chili oils and wasabi caviar. It was a heavenly parfait fit for the most discerning gastronome.
Our entrée was no less stunning. The miso herb crusted halibut was worth the visit all by itself. Chef Powell began with a generous portion of fresh, northern Pacific halibut from British Columbia and then dredged it in a special mixture of herbs, spices and Japanese panko breadcrumbs. The fish was quickly pan-seared, then finished in the oven to help impart a crunchy texture. Along with a fine julienne of shitake mushrooms, Napa cabbage and other Asian vegetables that were rapidly roasted in a very hot wok with scallion oil and ginger sauce, it was the consummate example of Pacific Rim cuisine.
To conclude our toothsome banquet, Gabriele served us a creamy creme brulee crowned by fresh apricots and cherries that had been sautéed into compote along with honey and a touch of vinegar to prevent it from being overly sweet. This was one of the best creme brulees that I have enjoyed in recent memory .and that is quite an endorsement coming from an ardent custard lover such as myself.
As we nursed a couple of after dinner snifters of an exceptional, Australian Muscadelle it was easy to float away into the languid, dream world that can only be induced by a fine meal and great wines that have been enjoyed in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All to soon, it was time to venture out onto Fifth Avenue and on to our car. Luckily, before heading back into the flurry of activities on the streets and sidewalks of downtown, we had the good fortune to enjoy an exquisite meal at one of the Gaslamp´s ultimate havens for gourmet palates, Aqua Blu.
