[Restaurant Review
Sally’s: A Marriage of Hospitality and Fine Dining
By Jessica Gang
We swing open the large glass doors of Sally’s Seafood on the Water to reveal an elegant and substantial bar complete with granite tabletops that glitter in the sunlight. Sally’s windows extend from ceiling to floor ensuring that no one miss the radiant sunshine and the gorgeous waterfront view, that is, and should be a source of immense pride.
Sushi Chef Nilyuk “Kaz” Kim stands behind a sushi counter directly to the left of the bar area, therefore assuring that all guests are made aware of Sally’s tenderly, hand prepared sushi. The hostess gives us the option to sit outside and enjoy the marina view from the sizeable patio, but unfortunately it is a bit windy so we choose instead to be seated in the spacious indoor dining room.
As we are led to our booth, I am mesmerized by the ebony granite that demands my attention as it twinkles with silvery jewel-like accents. The minimalistic décor gives Sally’s an elegant and modern feel. Very few embellishments are necessary in a restaurant with such a breathtaking view. We are seated comfortably in our booth and attempt to pinpoint the mood. Sally’s contains an unusual combination of impassive chic and welcoming enthusiasm that somehow inexplicably worked together.
Before beginning our meal we pensively inspect Sally’s considerable wine list. Although heavily dominated by California wines, Sally’s does offer other selections from New Zealand, Germany, France and Italy. We settle on a Pinot Noir that is highly recommended by our extremely helpful server, Drew. This subtle wine from Emeritus Vineyards proves to be a delicious companion to our upcoming feast.
We begin with a few selections from Sally’s extensive sushi, sashimi and nigiri menu: the Red Tuna Sashimi, Red Snapper Nigiri, the Hot Tuna Roll, the Dragon Roll and Sushi Chef Kaz’s own creation, the Kazoo roll. The sushi is served in a large wooden dish and garnished with daikon radish. It is a colorful display dominated by the bright yellow soy skin adorning the large Kazoo roll in the middle of the dish. While I am delighted by the fresh, hearty and lean cuts of sashimi and nigiri, and the equally appealing Dragon Roll and Hot Roll, it is the Kazoo roll that I am eyeing. This Chef’s specialty is salmon, mango, avocado, red-leaf lettuce, and rice wrapped in soy and topped with crushed pistachio. Each element of this substantial roll offers its own distinct taste, especially the fresh and juicy mango and the melt-in-your-mouth salmon. Not to be outdone by other more traditional Japanese restaurants, Sally’s has developed an interesting house blend soy sauce made from saki, tamarind and even a bit of A-1 for a flavor, although salty in theory the soy sauce possesses a distinctive sweetness.
After convincing ourselves not to fill up on sushi, we move on to Sally’s Signature Appetizer. This hodgepodge of Sally’s most celebrated appetizers highlights the Lobster Bisque, Blue Crab Cake and the Shiitake Chicken Spring Rolls. My natural instinct is to begin with the soup, so I quickly sink my spoon into the piping hot Lobster Bisque. It is topped with a frothy and light-handed rosemary foam that proves to be a pleasant addition. The aromatic rosemary foam gives a certain grace to the richness of the bisque. The bisque warms me all the way through, in the manner that comfort food is intended to.
Next, I move on to the Shiitake Chicken Spring Roll. Chef Sarah uses chicken thigh meat in her spring rolls, ensuring that the chicken remains moist and tender. The roll is crisp and crunchy and does not suffer from the greasiness that can be common in spring rolls. Shiitake mushrooms give the roll a woodsy flavor that does not overpower. The cilantro dipping sauce served alongside adds piquancy.
I finish with Sally’s celebrated Crab Cake. This treat certainly lives up to the hype. You do not often find a crab cake in San Diego that is worthy of a Maryland comparison, but Sally’s Crab Cakes earn just that. The cake is low on fillers, big on jumbo lump blue crab, and giant on taste. Every bite from this morsel serves up large lumps of crab, which is a must for those of us who understand the complexities of a Maryland Crab Cake. It is sandwiched between a caper remoulade that is suggestive of a gourmet tartar sauce, and a flavorful tomato relish for further flavor enhancement. Although, the remoulade and relish are pleasing accompaniments, I dare say the Crab Cake could stand alone.
Our next course consists of the Seafood Cioppino and the Fillo Crusted Halibut: two selections from Sally’s, “From the Sea” portion of the menu. This Seafood Cioppino consists of sautéed shrimp, crab, sea bass and scallops, which are topped by our server’s assistant with a rich and flavorful tomato broth. This seafood stew is flavored with chorizo and ham hocks giving it a deep smoky flavor. As a starch, we are given a light, buttery and impeccably toasted croissant crouton, which I promptly use to sop up some of the extra tomato broth.
As I turn my attention to the Fillo Crusted Halibut, I could not help but notice that the presentation reminds me of an ice cream sundae. Presented in layers, the halibut sits atop a tamarind aioli and a layer of garam marsala-spiced rice. The halibut is porcelain white, and topped with multiple layers of ruffled, paper thin fillo. The halibut is firm, but still flakes apart with a light touch of my fork. In combination with the spicy garam marsala rice and the sweet tartness of the tamarind aioli, the halibut’s mild flavor is transformed. Our helpful server makes sure to mention that there is always extra tamarind aioli to be had!
We had previously noticed the Lobster Pot Pie on the menu and are pleasantly surprised to be presented with a tasting size portion. Served to us in an espresso cup, the pot pie is topped with a fluffy puff pastry which I quickly break with my spoon to reveal an incredibly rich mixture of Canadian lobster tails, vegetables, Portuguese sausage, edamame and boursin cheese. There is no searching with your tiny spoon to find the lobster meat in Sally’s Lobster Pot Pie: every spoonful returns ample amounts of it. The puff pastry is light and butter and counteracts the richness of the boursin cheese.
While Sally’s specializes in seafood, it does offer diners a “From the Land” portion of the menu. We opt for the Sun Dried Tomato-Gorgonzola Crusted Beef Tenderloin. The beef tenderloin is colorful with the bright deep red of the sun dried tomatoes dominating the dish. This creamy mixture is generously placed atop a marvelous cut of tender and juicy tenderloin. Underneath the tenderloin, is a sweet soy demi –glace, and once again, Chef Sarah Linkenheil is able to harmonize the sweet and the salty.
This could not be a complete meal without trying a generous portion of Chef Sarah’s homemade desserts. I begin with the Chocolate Crunch, as I usually do gravitate towards sweet chocolate and the valrhona chocolate ganache does not disappoint. It is thick and incredibly rich, the type of dessert that is often accompanied by a glass of milk, cup of coffee or in our case a strong espresso. The ganache’s crust is a thick macadamia nut brittle and the dessert sits atop an appropriately full-flavored raspberry sauce. Next, I sample the Plum Crème Brûlée. This thick and creamy brûlée is flavored with red plums and Tahitian vanilla custard and topped with an indulgently sweet and crisp caramelized sugar. The brûlée has a luscious flavor that keeps you coming back to enjoy each and every enormously thick spoonful. Chef Sarah’s mother created the recipe for our third dessert: a light and fresh Lemon Mousse Cake made with Philadelphia cream cheese and topped with orange compote. This clean and refreshing dessert instantly reminds me of the summer days I so look forward to. Last, but certainly not least, is the homemade Gelato which, on this day, is cherry-flavored. This treat is creamy, soft and tastes as though you are biting right into a freshly picked cherry.
After our meal at Sally’s, we are escorted to the kitchen where Sally’s boasts an open kitchen and a Chef’s Table worthy of a king. Chef Sarah’s bubbly personality and her carefully prepared dishes would surely make an evening at her table an event to remember. Part of the Manchester Hyatt, Sally’s is a free standing restaurant that offers free parking in the hotel’s ramp with validation. Upon leaving Sally’s and partaking in the short walk back to our car, my dining partner and I both agree that Sally’s is a place where hospitality and fine-dining have found a home.
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