[Restaurant Review
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A Destination for Authentic Dining
5th Avenue runs north to south through the heart of San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter like an airport runway to destination dining. The east side of this dynamic street is punctuated by gleaming store fronts and chic boutique mannequins; the west side is an unbroken strand of patio-dining awnings and smiling hosts and hostesses behind menu-laden podiums. Many of our city’s most celebrated restaurants sit shoulder-to-shoulder along this bustling strip quietly competing for patrons, armed only with the keen accuracy of their menu and the inviting hospitality of their staff. Asti Ristorante is one such establishment that has made a name for itself by not only maintaining, but setting the highest standards for the quality of cuisine and service it provides. For seventeen years Asti has served its guests an uncompromising menu of authentic Italian dishes prepared and ushered by a staff that proudly regards itself as a family, and whom cordially invites its patrons to do the same.
Even before sampling the savory warmth of its food, guests are introduced to Asti’s easy sophistication and refreshing congeniality with a décor that seamlessly juxtaposes Old World charm and contemporary refinement. The dining room is a long, rectangular space accentuated by exposed brick walls, high ceilings, and a recessed area to the rear providing a semi-private sanctuary for intimate dining and private parties. Simply dressed white cloth-clad tables sit neatly aligned in three rows that follow the length of the room; the center row, flanked on all sides by hand-painted murals of feudal imagery, resembles a grand medieval banquet awaiting its royal guests. Mingling with the vividly-colored painted family crests and medallions are the many framed photographs of celebrity guests and memorable moments Asti has hosted through the years. And for a final touch of Old World class, the always attentive wait staff is dressed in crisp suits and white aprons.
Upon sitting down at our table for the evening, my guest and I took a long breathe and allowed the relaxed elegance of Asti to settle over us. While happily nibbling on warm, freshly baked bread dipped in olive oil and balsamic vinegar, we perused Asti’s culinary tour of a menu. A large selection of antipasti, salads, pasta, seafood, meat, and chicken offers a fine sampling of Italy’s regional specialties. For this feast of a meal, we decided to place our eager taste buds in the more-than capable hands of Jose, the manager and our host – Jose chose six dishes from the seasonally-inspired Chef’s Specials menu for us to taste.
We began with the Insalata Romantica. A large, round-sided square dish filled with fragrant greens was soon placed before us, and we gazed in delight at the vibrant slices of strawberry peeking out from under the leaves. The slightly bitter endive and peppery arugula created a savory baseline that was highlighted and distinguished by the sprinkling of caramelized walnuts and strawberries throughout. The gentle crunch of the walnuts complemented the crisp freshness of the greens, and contrasted nicely against the cool smoothness of the fruit. Also, a fine drizzling of a champagne strawberry dressing added a welcomed touch of acidity that both neutralized the bitterness and enhanced the aromatic intensity of the greens. With such a thoughtful combination of luscious fruit, enticing greens, crunchy nuts, and brisk champagne, this is a romantic salad, indeed.
The next appetizer we savored was the Mozzarella Di Buffala con Prosciutto. The visual splendor of this dish is in its rustic elegance. Three large strips of specially imported Parma prosciutto lay fanned out across a white plate, the marbling of the meat blending with the creamy tone of the dish. Thick slices of brilliant red tomatoes were stacked under the base of the prosciutto fan, topped with exquisitely smooth imported buffalo mozzarella and chopped basil. Deconstructing this lovely arrangement offered a truly tasty reward. We built our bites by using the tomato slices as disks to hold a silky layer of mozzarella and basil covered by ribbon-thin slices of prosciutto. The result was a satisfyingly complex play on texture, taste, and smell. The juicy meat of the tomato contained within its firm skin was cold, sweet, and intoxicatingly aromatic. The mozzarella’s creamy essence unveiled both sweet and savory notes that coated the tongue and subdued the more intense qualities of the ham. The cured meat’s salty baseline struck the palate first, then almost immediately stepped back to allow its slightly sweet, smoky, and fatty goodness to shine through. The basil, more discreet in its performance than the meat, graced the sinuses with an invigorating hint of herb that seemed to also heighten the intensity of the other elements.
Another refreshing starter came in the form of the Fritto Misto con Calamari. An oh-so light layer of breading covered large rings of calamari, plump shrimp, whole baby squid, and thickly cut strips of carrots and heads of broccoli. The calamari rings were expertly cooked to retain their natural texture without becoming chewy; the whole baby squid were blissful bites of richly textured, more intensely flavored calamari. The shrimp were tender and sweet, and were complemented nicely by the slight crunch and gentle flavor of the carrots and broccoli. The zesty red sauce that accompanied the dish worked well to weigh down the airy lightness of the squid and shrimp without overpowering the innate flavor of the sea.
As our pasta dish, Jose recommended the Ravioli Ai Porre E Gorgonzola. Always a fan of any dish revolving around cheese, I was ecstatic to receive a warm plate of large, mascarpone cheese and leek-filled ravioli covered in a rich gorgonzola and parmesan sauce. Biting into the pasta revealed its weighty, slightly chewy texture – a quality of fresh homemade pasta I adore. The mascarpone and leek filling exuded a distinctly meaty quality that cut the intensity of the thick and creamy sauce. Speaking of the sauce, its wealth of flavor and depth proved to be a welcomed counter reference to the ubiquitous thin and bland white sauce we are all too accustomed to. Subtle hints of sour and sweet danced with notes of salty, and an underlying base of mushroom-like pungency converged to seduce the palate and induce a state of blissful content.
The last entrée selection we sampled was the Lamb Chops Rosemary. Once again, the dish’s unpretentious, yet finely tuned presentation proved to be almost as satisfying as its impeccable taste. Thickly sliced lamb chops lay like savory lollypops on the plate, their long attached bones serving as handles to grasp while excitedly nibbling away at the succulent meat. Only for the sake of propriety did I avoid devouring my dish in this fashion like an emphatic child. The lamb meat was deliciously tender and served medium-rare. Joining my carnivore-friendly lollipops on the plate were nice helpings of steamed spinach and carrots. Lightly dressed, the spinach retained its inherit savory core and exhibited an earthy meatiness that made it a delightful bite on its own. The thickly sliced carrots counteracted the savory dominance of the meat and spinach, and interjected a bit of needed crunch to the dish. A drizzling of expertly seasoned rosemary sauce brilliantly married the rich essence of the meat with the fragrant vitality of the herb, illustrating just how spectacular thoughtfully simple cuisine can be.
Decadent Tiramisu drizzled with homemade strawberry and lime sauces served as the finale to our feast this night. Layers of moist cake, cream, and cocoa made us swoon, while punches of tart lime and strawberry flirted with our senses. After savoring the last bite of this luxurious delight, I knew it was the right closing chapter to this meal’s very tasty story.
Surrounded by noteworthy restaurants, Asti Ristorante is impossible to ignore; and after one visit, it is impossible to forget. Genuine hospitality greets every guest, and thoughtful artistry is presented on every plate. Yes, sitting shoulder-to-shoulder with so many acclaimed restaurants, Asti stands tall and proud.
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